The first stop is usually the local community to ask about sightings. This can sometimes result in some very vague information. We saw them just the other day can mean two months ago and, as in our case, we were informed the elephants hadn’t been seen for a “long time” although the river had fresh tracks and dung clearly visible EVERYWHERE!
After making the initial enquiries its time to look for tracks. These can be picked up virtually anywhere, but seeing that the elephants are reliant on water, water points are always a good place to start looking. The big tracks cannot be overlooked in the powdery sand of the dry rivers in Damaraland! The other give away that elephants are actively present is the dung that accompanies the tracks. A quick probe into this will give you an idea of how fresh it is. Warning! This does tend to make your finger smell a bit, so using a twig, stick pencil etc is perfectly fine.
From here on it’s a slow drive, in 4 wheel drive up and down the river following huge tracks seemingly left behind by very invisible elephants. And then just as you are about to go crazy from counting trees, an elephant appears…and with it the magic starts. One cow turns into three, and the three turn into 5 with young. And these are the moments I will never tire of.
It’s at this point that the engine is switched off and the moment savoured. There is no need to get closer, just let them go about their business. If they accept your presence they will come to you, if they don’t want you near them respect that fact! Slow and easy does it. Adverse behaviour will provoke adverse reactions.
