Bulletin 59
The Lure of the Western Keeled Snake
13 April 2009
Western Keeled Snake

Morning at Ganab in the Namib Desert found me eyeing the fuel gauge of  “The Beast” apprehensively.  It just touched the quarter line.  We had found ourselves further south than initially planned and were now contemplating a push through the southern part of the desert and then on back to Swakopmund.  Only question was did we have enough fuel.

A quick scan of the hand drawn map, some calculations and our minds were made up.  We would go the long way back and take our chances.  So we packed up camp, waved good-bye to the crows and hit the road.  There was a spot in the desert still to be explored by us!

After a very slow drive (conserving fuel and stopping for images along the way), we finally reached our destination - A small inselberg on he Namib plains.  The lush grasses of the eastern plains had by now taken on the appearance of a desert again, although still showing a hint of green.  Clouds still billowed and boiled on the horizon trailing their dark streaks of rain.

As soon as we parked the car and set up camp we knew that we had found our new “favourite spot”.  All mundane chores out of the way I immediately set about looking for subject matter and viewpoints for the afternoons’ photography.  An in true fashion as always I chose the most inaccessible spot in the area.

Laboriously I clambered up some rocky rubble slipping and sliding only to be confronted by a sheer un-scalable wall of rock.  As I slowly turned to pick my way back down, the rubble started to shift underfoot.  My hand shot out and wedged against the rock face to my side and I sensed I had company before I saw it!

A small fright mixed with joy as I recognised a Western Keeled Snake coiled on the vertical rock face no more than 5 centimetres from my hand.   I very slowly removed my hand and clambered down the rocky slope to fetch my camera.  Upon my return the snake still clung to the rock face where I had last seen it.  Perfectly camouflaged and suitably prehistoric looking, waiting for its main prey – geckos!

According to a well known guide book the Western Keeled Snake although not venomous apparently strikes readily.  Someone had forgotten to tell the snake. This particular individual was as calm as they come!  After a good twenty minutes or so he decided to slither on along the rock and did not pay any attention to me, as I took image after image.  What a joy it was to have found a rarely seen snake and to photograph it in a natural setting without it stressing in the least.  

I decided I had covered all possible angles, given the cramped and precariously lofty position I found myself in.  Happy and content I made my way back down to our camp site, on a mission to find a way up onto the mountain to make the most of the evening light. 

Snake on a rock
I have lit the snake using a flash to make it stand out. Under normal lighting he was perfectly camouflaged!
Coiled and waiting
Lying in wait!
Scales
Perfect colours and patterns to blend into its surroundings!
Head shot
The Western Keeled a Portrait!
Mirabib
The snakes' home on the Namib Plains!
The Road Back Home
The last stretch on our way back home! Proper desert again and the fuel gauge was in the red!