Bulletin 61
Flowing Water - Stalking Shadows
09 May 2009

I had spent the afternoon walking up a flowing river in the Naukluft Mountains.  At times I had to wade thigh high through clear flowing water, whilst ducking and weaving through tunnels of dense reeds and lush vegetation.  This can be a bit unnerving as the only audible sound was that of rushing water in the darkness of the reed cocoons.  Anything could be watching, waiting, lurking…

Having spent most of the daylight hours making my way upstream and photographing boulders and rushing water, the day had turned decidedly dark and broody by the time I decided to return to the campsite in the evening.  High above me on the cliff tops I’d sometimes spot a klipspringer (small antelope) staring down at me, only to magically disappear.  All this set to a dramatic glimpse of dark storm cloud in the sky!

About half a kilometre from the campsite I stopped to take the last images of the evening, so that I could still find my way back to camp before impenetrable darkness set in.  Crouching low in the water I set about the task of capturing the flowing river as it made the boulders talk, gurgle and whisper.  What a strange sight I must have been, bobbing in a flowing stream, wedged between choking vegetation and a towering rock face.  Topped by a lightly drizzling sky!

Unseen to me at the time a dark shadow flitted silently from boulder to boulder. It weaved in and out of roots and tree trunks that had been tossed aside by the floodwaters, a vigilant eye constantly trained on me.  It finally settled on a big water polished boulder 5 meters from me and silently watched me with its black eyes as I sat crouched, my rear end in the water and my back to the bank.

A sudden sense of unease settled over me and I froze.  I knew I was alone in the gorge, as the warden had informed me that no other visitors were expected for the next five days.  The booking attendant gave me a sincere look of concern (the sort of sympathetic concern reserved for the slightly deranged) and shook her head when I indeed confirmed that I was all by myself and wanting to camp for two nights down in the gorge.  Her parting words being “I’d be too very scared alone…”.  As if to emphasize this, the sky darkened another notch or two as I left the booking office.  A distant thunder rolled beyond the mountains…

All these thoughts more or less rushed through my mind simultaneously, and tried to squeeze in along with the visual perception of the fading light and the disarming sensation of being watched.  My hand gripping the tripod leg tightened, and I very, very slowly turned my head.  At the exact same moment as my brain translated what my eyes saw, the Laughing Dove cocked its head and probably thought (“should I pull the avian equivalent of a Lassie and go and get help”?).  We both just stared at each other for a few seconds and then the dove hopped towards me as if to introduce its self!

We exchanged pleasantries as one does in remote places (being all alone out on the road and wilds does tend to induce long meaningful conversations with inanimate objects, insects, lizards and my personal favourite the empty space to my immediate front).  Basically I did the talking, and the dove patiently and politely nodded along.  Not wanting to be in the water after dark I bid my farewell and waded on down to the campsite.

And who did I find waiting for my by the side of the “Beast”…my new friend!  The dove had obviously cracked the secret to the easy life out here in this wild place…soliciting handouts in the campsites!  As I was the only soul for miles around, I instantly acquired a constant shadow.

If anyone had been watching that evening, they would have witnessed a very peculiar scene indeed.  A lone figure hunched cooking dinner under the cover of a tree. A beer in hand and a Laughing Dove munching on some scattered oats by his side.  And as the last of the murky daylight wavered and dimmed, they would have probably caught fragments of conversation… “…imagine my concern when they informed me they were out of  93, and that the nearest fuel…” and a dove nodding solemnly at just the right moments

Water and green vegetation
I forgive you if you do not think this is on the edge of the desert!
ancient rock and water
Boulders and flowing water...
cascading waters
Lovely clear water...by the time I got out of it I was past the prune stage...
Peaceful moments
Motion!
Roots and water
Exposed roots and debris!
Water
Evening sets in!

My new friend in the morning

My friend the Laughing Dove hoovering up a scattering of oats in the morning...