Bulletin 71, The Mountain Part II - Rock Art and Yellow Water, 02 April 2010
I find myself lying awake and trying not to move in my sleeping bag, as the temperature has taken a drop. Even the smallest movement of an arm or a leg brings on a chill. With the sky above taking on a hint of colour, the camp starts to come alive with movement. Coffee is on the agenda.
I make for the cliff edge, camera attached to the tripod in one hand and a mug of coffee in the other. I somehow manage to climb a small rock face and boulder hop to the edge, only spilling about a ¼ of my coffee. The sun spreads over the plains below as it drifts up over the eastern horizon. The view is spectacular! I take in the Erongo Mountains, both the Spitzkoppes and the complete sweep right over the Messum Crater to the west. I take as much time soaking up the view as I do taking pictures.
Below: The view of what lies ahead
We have a lot planned for the day, and I boulder hop back to camp, empty coffee cup in hand. I empty my backpack into the large waterproof plastic bag brought along for this very purpose. Have a quick cup of Muesli (we only took cups along as bowls etc would end up weighing us down), another coffee, stash my share of the water in the pack and we are off on our all day jaunt.
The going once again is over mostly broken rock. Though thankfully the terrain alternates between climbs and level stretches. All in all, the going is a lot less taxing than the previous days climb. We amble along at a steady pace, stopping here and there for amusing stories of past climbs and for a bit of botany, accompanied by spectacular views from elevated ridges.
Below: Rock Art - Schlangenhoele
It is in this laid back fashion that we finally reach our first ‘notable’ destination – Schlangenhoele – or in English, Snake Cave, and its rock paintings. The walls are covered with remarkably clear well preserved paintings believed to be 2000-3000 years old. We rest up in the cool shade of the cave and gaze down into the valley. It’s not hard to see why the hunter-gatherers used this cave. All to soon we leave the tranquil cave with its paintings and continue on our way to an area with known pools that usually hold water in the summer.
Above: Rock Art - Thousands of years old.
Below: Dietrich going for a second cup.
We are in luck and the pools still have water. I dip my cup in trying to avoid the thick growth of algae and tadpoles. The water tastes earthy but is cold and does the job. I fill the water bottles before we set towards an area with deeper catchment pools. These also still have water and come in handy for a pre lunch swim followed by a post lunch nap in the cool shade of a rocky overhang.
We start the return leg in the early part of the afternoon, gently climbing back onto the plateau, all the while following pools still containing water, eventhough the last rains fell about 6 months ago. At the last known sizeable pool we fill all the water bottles for tomorrows decent. Unfortunately the water in this pool is decidedly earthy and just has that menacing look that says ‘instant diarrhea! All the water we collect will need to be boiled to ensure it is safe for drinking.
Above: Surprise - Water was still available in the pools.
Above: The receding water levels are clearly visible on the rock.
Above: The Infamous Yellow Water - Looks tasty!
Abve: Tracks remain where water flows during the rains.
Below: Atlantic mist creeps over the desert below
Back at camp, I once again return to my look out on the mountains edge. It is uncomfortably windy but the view once again does not disappoint. Mist from the Atlantic rolls in off the west and obscures the Messum bar a few peaks that form very lonely looking islands. It’s almost completely dark as I make my way back to the camp.
We spend the evening watching the flickering campfire, talking of the days venture whilst tending to the chore of boiling the yellow water on hissing gas cookers. The night is dominated by a bright starry sky and a persistent cold wind that tugs away at my sleeping bag. I eventually drift off listening to the sounds of a mouse scampering around in the undergrowth.
Above: A quiet moment by the fire, as the yello water boils on a hissing gas cooker
Below: Morning mists cover the plains far below
In the morning my usual look out spot treats me to an ethereal mist covered world below me. Thick Atlantic fog rolled in off the ocean during the night and has cloaked the world below. I can’t linger too long as we need to make our way back down the mountain. A few frames, and I head back to the camp, for breakfast and to pack.
As we leave the camp we come across a huge leopard track. It is fresh and a little tingle goes through me as I again realise that we were never alone during our stay. Too bad I never get to see the cat. The descent is uneventful though hard work and we eventually arrive back at the base of the mountain, dirty, scratched and battered -and very happy. I will be back for more.
Above: Mist everywhere - the outcrops and small mountains have disappeared below
Above: My poor shoes after three days - RIP. And off to the side the best "Cold One" ever!
Above: The Brandberg as we left.
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