Bulletin 72, From Somewhere "Moer-Toe North", 09 May 2010
Count not only my blessings but also count my worries and struggles as well - African Proverb
I make no excuses for the fact that this particular part of the text will make far more sense to someone from Southern Africa. It was brought to my attention that I live “Moer-Toe North”!
It all arose a day or so ago when Nico referred to me as ‘living moer-toe North’. Directly translated into English, the expression loses its darkly humorous ring and comical meaning. (in English moer-toe translates as stuffed-up, destroyed beyond repair…). With a grey sky and rain puddles outside the words ‘moer-toe North’ couldn’t be more apt.
As some of you know I have just returned, spending three weeks down south in the Namib and immediate surroundings…or ‘civilisation’, as my friends put it. As always I have brought along with me more than just images stored on hard drives but a whole string of memories, emotions and experiences. I did indeed cram a lot in to the three weeks and I thoroughly enjoyed the ride. -Both the ups and downs-from seals nipping at my underwater housing to being ordered to my room with a case of arc eyes (ultraviolet keratitis or snow blindness), brought on by staring at highly reflective water for two days! That one left me grumpy as hell.
Above -Beauty and the Beast - Me holding the prettiest snake in the world-
Above: This one is not for holding as its bite packs a punch...
It all started when the Rubberduck we were using to photograph seals, dolphins and pelicans refused to start. On both mornings after being used to re-supply the tourist boats and handed over to us, the engine refused to fire. Each morning a different problem was found and duly dealt with by Charl in his usual calm ‘we’ll make a plan’ manner.
The first morning required wires to be stripped, cut and reinserted into the battery terminals. The second required a fuse to be changed. The fuse was obtained from a random person sitting in a coffee shop, who happened to have one, spare, in his pocket. Day saved…until the engine died, gasping and spluttering as we ran out of petrol, gently bobbing out at sea…with the seals giving us cheeky “what you gonna do now” looks and splashing us with water to emphasise their point. (we had a can of petrol for just this event). So there!
Below: Grace itself - Bottlenose Dolphins
I also had the joy of accompanying Riana, Nico and Tommy as they conducted an environmental impact study. They were specifically looking for reptiles, which needed to be caught, photographed, recorded and released again. Tommy, as usual did not fail to amaze us, spotting a sand snake (among a score of other reptiles that day) hanging over a boulder.
I quote Tommy here: “I got him. He bit me. He bit me again… but I’ve still got him.” Tommy was grinning from ear to ear. Little kid; candy store; unsupervised…comes to mind. In case you were wondering, the sand snakes venom is not harmful to humankind. At least not this particular species…
Other notable moments include knowing I was being eyed-up by a leopard as I sat in a valley at the Brandberg, guarding my camera set-up, whilst photographing start-rails in the early morning hours. The glow of eyes in the torch light and the tracks the following morning confirmed this.
Above: Pelican taking off.
Below: What you looking at?
Another keeper occurred as I sat by some puddles on the slopes of the Brandberg photographing birds and lizards drinking. When I spotted what at first seemed to be a thick piece of rubber but transpired to be a huge Black Spitting Cobra, hunting among the rocks. I followed the snake and then lost it as it disappeared under some boulders. Best not to mess with that snake! Gorgeous none the less…
The list is practically endless, but for sanities sake and not to keep you from your more pressing chores of daily life, I’ll cut it short. Enjoy the images and I am always happy to hear from all of you. Whether you are Down South in ‘Civilisation’ or ‘Moer Toe North’ like me… - keep the emails coming. Take care.
Above: Friend, Skipper, Guide - Charl taking a pic of me taking a pic of him (oh and an expert at tracking down fuses in coffee shops)
Above: The stars in a valley of the Brandberg. Magical to lie and stare at the sky at night.
Above: Star trails at the Brandberg.
Abve: Absailing at the Spitzkoppe. Sanity at the end of a rope!
Below: Taking a break as the moon rises! Ok, just a bit of fun.
- Not everyone who chased the Zebra caught it, but he who caught it chased it - African Proverb
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